Which binding to choose according to my skiing use?
If you’re on this page, you probably know that you need different bindings depending on the type of skiing you’re doing. Here’s an overview of the differences.
How to choose your ski bindings
We all know that choosing ski bindings can be a real headache. But don’t panic, we’ve got all the information you need to choose the best pair of bindings for your type of skiing, your level of skiing and your body type.
When you’re a beginner in alpine skiing, you can buy a pack of skis + bindings. These packs work very well when you’re a beginner, and the "rack" of bindings means you can adjust them to fit your ski boots perfectly.
But when you’re an experienced skier, you can buy a pair of bare skis to choose the binding that suits you best. And there are different types of bindings for different types of skiing. Here’s all our advice on how to choose the right ski bindings.
ALPINE SKI
In alpine skiing, the vast majority of skis are offered in "packs", i.e. with the bindings already attached. This is the case at Decathlon. Each ski is fitted with a binding, which has obviously been selected to match the skier’s level. Beginners will be delighted with the safety bindings, as will experts looking for precision. These packs have the advantage of offering skis with bindings that can be easily adjusted to suit different body shapes.
But be careful if you’re lending your skis to a friend because you need take care when adjusting the bindings. We’ll give you all the information you need for this at the end of this article.
FREERIDE SKIING
One of the main differences between alpine ski bindings and freeride ski bindings is the width of the base. This is because the distance between the screws is wider, so the binding will be more secure to reduce the risk of it coming off. Freeride ski bindings have a higher DIN setting (which we’ll explain in more detail below) to support those who love skiing on powdery snow and who tend to be more committed to the descent. That said, if you’re looking for equipment to conquer untouched slopes, you’ll need lightweight bindings.
The elasticity of ski bindings is also important for freeride bindings. A lot of elasticity makes it easier to absorb uneven terrain beneath the skis. Freeride bindings mean you’ll be closer to your skis and have a better feel for the snow, so you’ll get more out of the powder. So, it’s important to choose bindings that are specifically for freeriding so that you can practice in complete safety and comfort.
SKI TOURING: the bindings are essential!
This sport requires a certain amount of effort by those doing it: the weight is very important. Therefore, ski touring bindings are made from very light technical materials such as aluminium or plastic.
There are several types of ski touring bindings, but all of them must be able to free your heel to climb the slopes without using the ski lifts. As with alpine skis, all of Decathlon’s touring skis come with bindings already mounted; but there are other criteria to consider. We’re talking about bindings with Low Tech inserts, hybrid bindings or even bindings that can slide for beginners.
For beginners, there are ski touring bindings that can "slide", that are safe on the descent and that don’t require compatible ski boots. They are similar to alpine ski bindings and also have a front stop and heel piece, but on an articulated plate rather than screwed onto the ski as in alpine skiing. The advantage is that they can be used with alpine ski boots, so you only need one pair of skis, for both ski touring and alpine skiing. However, they are the heaviest ski touring bindings on the market. They will not suit skiers who are looking to enjoy climbing, and who will therefore be very careful about the weight of their ski touring bindings.
For the more assiduous skiers, the most suitable bindings are those with Low Tech inserts, which are found on the majority of our touring skis. These bindings are the most widely used, offering the best balance between support and a lightweight design. This type of ski touring binding is made up of two inserts (or lugs) at the front stop that grip the boot at the toe box (so the boot fits), and an adjustable heel piece for use on ascents and descents. Your weight plays an important role in your choice: depending on the model, the bindings cover a particular DIN range (release value: we’ll tell you more about this below), which corresponds to your weight.
Finally, for freetouring, which is a mix of freeride skiing and ski touring, you’ll need specific bindings that allow you to free your heel for ascents without compromising on sturdiness for descents. These are known as hybrid bindings. These bindings are designed for skiers who want to go for it, who want to "send it" on the descent, as we say in the skiing world. The system on the front stop is stronger than on a Low Tech binding.
Your boots must be compatible with your bindings.
As you will have gathered from reading the previous paragraphs, boots vary depending on what you do. So, before buying your bindings, make sure you know the standard of your boots to check that your bindings are compatible. These standards define the shape of the sole of the boot and the size of its overhangs (front and rear parts of the sole), which hold the boot in place on the binding. There are currently two standards:
Downhill standard (ISO 5355)
This is the most widely used standard. Downhill standard boots have a plastic plate under the heel and toe. This plate provides additional safety because it increases the transfer of energy when triggering the ski.
Ski touring standard (ISO 9523)
It’s the sole that differs, making walking easier and more natural. ISO 9523 standard boots may have different heel inserts or heel heights than standard boots.
In this video : How to adjust your ski bindings
How do I adjust my ski bindings?
Adjusting ski bindings is essential for safe skiing. If the bindings are too tight or not tight enough, the skier can either take off their boots too easily, or keep them on their feet during a fall when it would have been better to take them off. Ski bindings are adjusted according to your weight, shoe size and ability.
Important to note: if you’re not an expert, we strongly recommend that you have your bindings adjusted by a professional. Incorrectly adjusted bindings are a real safety risk.
If you’re comfortable, follow this tutorial, which gives you all the information you need. For those who prefer to read, everything is explained below.
How do I adjust ski bindings?
Start by adjusting your bindings according to your shoe size. You’ll find the Mondopoint number written directly on your shoe. This adjustment is often done by hand, using a small plastic tab that you can lift to unlock, slide your binding into place, then lower to re-lock.
Next comes adjusting according to the DIN value, which is also known as the release value. This is the hardness that makes it easier or more difficult to take off your skis in a fall. Adjustment is usually done with a screwdriver (you can readjust this release value at the ski lifts, which often have them available for self-service).
- For beginners, the DIN should be set at a value that falls below the skier’s weight to make it easier to release the ski and take it off to avoid injury in the event of a fall. For example, if you weigh 80 kg, set the DIN at between 7 and 8.
- If you’re an intermediate or expert skier, set the DIN a little higher than your weight. This will prevent you from taking off your skis too easily in hard skiing conditions, but will not prevent the ski from taking off in the event of a fall. If you’re a good skier, opt for a DIN of between 8 and 9.
Don’t hesitate to visit a Decathlon shop, which can also fit your bindings to your skis.
We're there: Now you know all there is to know about bindings! You can now narrow down your search for equipment before enjoying the winter on the slopes or on a tour.
